80% од новите дизјни на трски се или прогресивци или фаст тапери. Вистинските параболици изумреа пред едно 5-6 години. Тоа е затоа што трендот на лонг каст машинки мора да се проследи со лонг каст трски - се е маркетинг.
Ме интересира што е тоа трска за уживање? Трска која се витка, која е мека? Параболик.. Фаст тапер? Трска која е за 50-100м? Кои се одликите на една трска за уживање? Дали фразата лонг дистанс е одлика на една трска за уживање?
Сакам да кажам секој си има различен став за она
„трска за уживање“.
Гледам се бега од фаст тапер, се оди кон избор на класичен параболик во предлозите, тоа за жал денеска го нема, не оние реални параболици.
Гледам некој овде ги меша работите со либража и акција. Пак ке повторам, трската може да е 10 либри ама да има екстремно спора акција и да се витка како кубас сварен, во исто време друга трска која е 10лб моќе да се витка само во 1/4 горен дел... Што мислите која од овие трски е по јака? Која е онаа трска која побрзо ке ја умори рибата? И со која ке биде полесна работата на риболовецот?
За мене лично трски за уживање се трски кој се брзи и прецизни но во исто време и имаат гиб..
Такви трски се прогресивци.
За хај енд производители:
Century:
FBS
ADVOne
NG+
Free Spirit:
His 13' 3.25lbs
За „кинези“ има колку ти душа сака.. само зависи кон кој бренд би бил со симпатии..
Би разгледал Шимано, Даива, ПроЛоџик, Спортекс.. има еден куп.. само кај кој кинез сакаш ти да одиш твое е..
Битно трската да е прогресивец..
Првин се бира Акција, па либража па тек на крај која ке подпадне во тие спецификации тие треба да ги пробаш.. се додека не видиш со твоето раче.. ништо не правиме..
За мене е мека FS His 13' 3.25lb.. може тебе ке ти е бомбона..
И за крај.. да не биде дека зборам од памет..
еве еден мал текст од еден реномиран риболовец..
UNDERSTANDING CARP RODS
Obviously in any form of fishing there’s much more to it than just casting to the horizon. On big waters in particular it’s all too easy to become fixated with long range fishing and ignore what’s literally swimming under your feet. That’s a mistake many of us probably often make.
So for me, a casting rod must be capable of hitting extreme distance, reliability is also of paramount importance, but the rod must also be a pleasure to play fish on.
There’s a huge range of carp rods available these days from a wide range of companies, many come with extravagant claims regarding performance and casting ability. Prices vary enormously and just purchasing the most expensive one doesn’t guarantee that you have chosen one best suited to your needs.
It’s very difficult when you walk into a tackle shop to decide what rod best suits your needs, sales talk and the look of a rod or even the latest ‘must have in fashion rod’ can lead you to making bad choices. So how do you go about choosing the right rod for you?
First of all you need to think about your own carp fishing and what kind of rod do you really need?
Extreme range fishing, distance fishing, medium water fishing and small water fishing covers most of the situations likely to be encountered.
The one common feature that all rods have is that the stiffest end is the butt and the softest end is the tip, there are many different configurations of this basic rule that combine to provide so many different rod actions.
Choosing the correct rod action is vital as this has the biggest influence on how the blank will behave and whether it is suited to your own fishing
THROUGH ACTION.
When compressed, this type of rod will give you a C type curve, the softness of the blank and the ‘feel’ this action provides combine to create what is often described as a great ‘players’ rod. The forgiving nature will also allow you to use light hooklinks and still control hard fighting fish.
Through action rods are ideal for fishing against snags, when you hook and pull into a fish, as the rod compresses, in effect, the lever is shortened which allows you to apply more pressure and maximise the chance of successfully extracting the carp.
But on the flip side of that, through action rods are not best suited for casting because they absorb the power put into them on the cast and do not have the speed off recovery to transmit the power into lead and tip speed.
Interestingly though, stepped up parabolic rods can make excellent casting rods especially when casting level line (say 15lb line right through) as the action absorbs the initial surge at the start of the cast and prevents the line snapping
FAST TAPERED ACTION RODS
This type of rod when compressed commonly gives you a J type curve. A stiff butt, firm mid section, down to a soft tip all combine to create a quick recovery rod. The correct casting technique is required to get the best out of them as all the power in the rod is down at the butt. A powerful progressive technique is the key, the powerful midsection creates a wide arc during the cast which in turn allows for a high lead speed
These rods can be used for distance carping or in some cases extreme distance, but the soft tips are not ideal, as once again a very specific casting action will be required to bend them enough to allow the stiffer mid and butt sections to compress and do their job.
The softer tips do of course enhance the fish playing aspect of powerful rods and allow you to use quite light hooklinks at range.
SEMI FAST ACTION
This is the most commonly produced rod and in many ways is a compromise between the two previous actions. Some will have an emphasis towards distance and others towards playability and easy casting.
These are true multi - purpose rods and will be well suited to most angling situations, providing you choose the correct test curve best suited to your needs.
These rods can be used for margin fishing to extreme range, I particularly like the fact that in higher test curves, the firmer tip allows the butt section to be loaded much earlier in the cast making them ideal for overhead casting. Anglers can easily increase distance with these rods in higher test curves as they are much easier to load. They recover quickly and create wide arcs and unlike softer all through action rods, the effective rod length doesn’t decrease during the cast.
TEST CURVES
After deciding on the action of the rod, the test curve is the next decision to be made. The test curve simply refers to the force required in pounds and ounces to pull the tip around 90 degrees to the butt.
But test curves can be deceptive. The problem is if we took two rods, one a fast tapered rod and the other a firm tipped parabolic rod, if we pulled down on the tips, the fast tapered rod may require 2lbs of weight to achieve the 90 degrees to the butt and the parabolic rod may need 3.5lbs to do the same.
In casting terms the logical assumption would be that the parabolic rod is the most powerful and would be ideally suited for big bags and heavy leads but in actual fact that assumption would be wrong.
Because of the soft tip, with the fast tapered rod the butt section will have only been partially compressed meaning there is a lot more potential power in the rod to load.
My advice is to pick the action of the rod first then decide how powerful you need it to be.